SOIL<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nThe soil which you are using for filling your raised bed should be rich in nutrients. It is suggested that you should use well amended and well-drained soil. Make sure your soil has all the essential organic matter. You can use manure or compost to make your soil rich in organic matter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
WATERING<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nThe frequency of water should be even for your cabbage plant. If your plants get uneven water that will result in stunted or cracked heads. Your cabbage plants need 1 to 1 \u00bd inches of water every week. Avoid overwatering because it will result in splitting the heads of cabbage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
FEEDING<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nWhen midseason comes you should fertilize your cabbage plants. The fertilizer which has high nitrogen like 10-5-5 is best. You can also apply a dilute solution of fish emulsion or seaweed every two weeks. Cabbage is a heavy feeder so don’t let it hungry and fulfill its requirement for nutrients. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
PESTS AND DISEASES<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nCabbage worms, cutworms, slugs, and snails are easily attracted to cabbage. They can ruin young cabbage leaves. If you see aphids attacking your plant it means your plant is facing water stress or heat stress. You can follow the following tips to prevent your plants from diseases and pests.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
When cabbage plants are young you can cover them to prevent them from pests.<\/li> If you grow radish and onions near cabbage plants then they will help deter pests.<\/li> The young cabbage plants are in danger of cutworms. So you should place a protective collar around them. You can also use newspapers for this purpose.<\/li> Whenever you see caterpillars then a handpick is an easy and simple solution.<\/li> You can get rid of aphids by a heavy flow of water. Insecticidal soap is another option.<\/li> You can protect your plants from soil-borne disease by rotating your cabbage plants. If your cabbage plant becomes the victim of soil-borne disease then you should discard the plant and rotate the crop for next year. You should wait until three years before planting cabbage in the same location.<\/li> You can prevent your plant from diseases by removing the entire plant after harvesting. Avoid leaving the roots in the ground to protect your next year’s crop.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\nHarvesting<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nCold weather improves the flavor of cabbage. Cabbage has the property to tolerate light cold. You should harvest your crop before the temperature rises. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
In case, you sow the seeds then the maturity time of cabbage is about 80 to 180 days. If you transplant the seedlings then your crop will be ready in approximately 65 to 105 days. It depends on the variety which you are growing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
When you see heads are formed and firm then you can harvest them. Use a sharp knife for cutting the cabbage. If you want a second crop then cut the head off high on the plant. Make sure you leave many outer leaves. You can harvest the cabbage head when it reaches the size of a tennis ball. <\/li> If you want to use the method cut-and-come-again then harvest only older outer leaves and leave the center of the plant; it will encourage the growth of new leaves. You can harvest leaf cabbage about a month after planting.<\/li> When harvesting is complete you can remove the roots and stem of the plant. This will prevent your new crop from soil-borne disease.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n \n\n\n\n <\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n \n\n\n\nStore And Use Homegrown Cabbage<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nIf you see loose leaves on your cabbage head then remove them. Wrap the head in a damp paper towel and store it in a plastic vegetable bag. You can store cabbage for three to four weeks in the refrigerator.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Cabbage likes to grow in cold climates. As this vegetable is not too fussy that’s why you can easily grow it in your garden. In this article, we are going<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1607,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_mi_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[69],"tags":[252,251],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bedgardening.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1606"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bedgardening.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bedgardening.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bedgardening.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bedgardening.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1606"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.bedgardening.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1606\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1610,"href":"https:\/\/www.bedgardening.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1606\/revisions\/1610"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bedgardening.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1607"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bedgardening.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1606"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bedgardening.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1606"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bedgardening.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1606"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}